--- title: "How to Make a Laundry Bag" canonical: "https://apleasanthome.com/how-to-make-a-laundry-bag/" author: "Adnan" published: "2026-07-28T14:06:23+06:00" modified: "2026-07-28T14:32:53+06:00" language: "en-US" site: "Apleasanthome" description: "![how to make a laundry bag](images/howtomakealaundrybag.webp) I've sewed dozens of laundry bags over the years. Some turned out great. Others? Let's just…" categories: "Blog" attribution: "Apleasanthome (https://apleasanthome.com/)" --- # How to Make a Laundry Bag ![how to make a laundry bag](https://apleasanthome.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/07/how-to-make-a-laundry-bag-mrxy4apc.webp) I’ve sewed dozens of laundry bags over the years. Some turned out great. Others? Let’s just say they taught me what not to do. Here’s the thing, making your own laundry bag isn’t complicated. You don’t need a fancy machine or years of experience. You just need the right approach and a bit of patience. A good laundry bag does more than hold dirty clothes. It protects delicates in the wash. It keeps socks from disappearing. It makes carrying laundry to the basement or laundromat ten times easier. And when you make it yourself, you control the size, fabric, and durability. Let me walk you through every step. By the end, you’ll have a sturdy, custom laundry bag that’ll last for years. ## Why Make Your Own Laundry Bag? Store-bought laundry bags cost anywhere from eight to twenty dollars. That’s not terrible until you realize how cheaply they’re made. Thin [mesh](https://apleasanthome.com/how-to-sew-a-mesh-laundry-bag/) rips after three washes. Drawstrings snap. Seams unravel. When you sew your own, you choose heavy-duty materials. You reinforce stress points. You get exactly the dimensions you need, whether that’s a small bag for delicates or a massive one for bedding. Plus, there’s something satisfying about using something you built with your own hands. It sounds corny. It’s true. ## Materials You’ll Need Before we start cutting fabric, gather everything. Nothing kills momentum like stopping mid-project to hunt for scissors. ![fabric and sewing supplies](https://apleasanthome.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/07/fabric-and-sewing-supplies-mrxy4cix.webp) ### Fabric Options Your fabric choice determines how long this bag lasts. Here’s what works: - **Cotton canvas**, My top recommendation. Durable, breathable, machine washable. Holds up to regular abuse. - **Nylon or polyester mesh**, Perfect for delicates. Lets water and detergent flow through while protecting fragile items. - **Denim**, Heavy-duty option if you’ve got old jeans to repurpose. Takes more effort to sew but lasts forever. - **Cotton muslin**, Lightweight and cheap. Fine for a temporary bag but won’t survive years of heavy use. For a standard laundry bag (roughly 24 inches by 30 inches), you’ll need about one yard of 45-inch wide fabric. If you want a larger bag or plan to line it, grab two yards. ### Hardware and Notions - Coordinating thread, Polyester thread is stronger than cotton - Drawstring cord, 3/8-inch cotton or nylon cord, about 60 inches long - Safety pin or bodkin, For threading the drawstring - Fabric scissors or rotary cutter - Measuring tape or ruler - Pins or clips - Seam ripper (trust me, you might need it) - Iron and ironing board ### Optional but Helpful - Grommets and grommet tool (creates cleaner drawstring openings) - Double-fold bias tape for finishing raw edges - Contrast thread for topstitching The U.S. National Institute of Standards and Technology maintains [sewing and textile standards](https://www.nist.gov/) that can help you understand fabric grades if you’re sourcing materials from specialty shops. Their guidelines on thread strength and fabric weight are solid references for any serious sewing project. ## Choosing the Right Size Standard laundry bags come in three sizes. Here’s what each one handles: | Bag Size | Dimensions (finished) | Best For | | --- | --- | --- | | Small | 16″ × 20″ | Delicates, lingerie, socks | | Medium | 24″ × 30″ | Daily laundry, single person | | Large | 30″ × 36″ | Family loads, bedding, towels | I recommend starting with medium. It’s versatile. It fits in most washing machines. And you won’t feel overwhelmed wrestling a giant piece of fabric on your first try. ## Step 1: Cut Your Fabric The math is simple. Decide your finished dimensions, then add: - 1 inch for the side seams (½ inch per side) - 2 inches for the top hem (where the drawstring goes) - 1 inch for the bottom seam (½ inch seam allowance) So for a 24-by-30-inch finished bag, cut your fabric to 26 inches wide by 33 inches tall. Lay your fabric flat on a cutting mat or large table. Smooth out all wrinkles. If you’re using a rotary cutter, use a straight edge as a guide. With scissors, mark your cutting line with chalk or a fabric pen first. Cut slowly. Rushed cuts lead to crooked seams. Pro tip: Wash and dry your fabric before cutting. Cotton shrinks. You don’t want your perfectly sized bag turning into a doll’s laundry sack after its first wash. ## Step 2: Prepare the Drawstring Channel The drawstring channel runs along the top edge. This is where most beginners mess up. Let’s do it right. Fold the top edge of your fabric down ¼ inch, wrong sides together. Press with an iron. This creates a clean, finished edge. Now [fold that same edge](https://apleasanthome.com/how-to-fold-net-laundry-bag/) down another 1¾ inches. Press again. You’ve created a 2-inch double-fold hem. The raw edge is tucked inside. Pin or clip this hem in place every 3 to 4 inches. Keep the folds even. An uneven hem makes the drawstring bunch up later. ## Step 3: Sew the Drawstring Hem Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch, length 2.5 to 3 millimeters. Stitch along the bottom edge of the hem, close to the fold. Backstitch at the start and end. This seam secures the hem but leaves the top open as a channel. Sew a second line of stitching ½ inch above the first one. This creates a dedicated tunnel for your drawstring. It also gives the top edge extra strength, important when the bag gets stuffed full of wet clothes. Here’s a common mistake: people sew the side seams before finishing the drawstring channel. Don’t. The fabric lies flat and moves through the machine much easier when you do the hem first. ## Step 4: Sew the Side and Bottom Seams Now fold your fabric in half with right sides together. The wrong side faces outward. Align the raw edges carefully. Pin the side and bottom edges. Make sure the drawstring channel doesn’t get caught in the side seam, that has to stay open. Starting at the top of one side (just below the drawstring hem), sew down to the bottom corner. Pivot. Sew across the bottom. Pivot. Sew up the other side. Backstitch at each end. I use a ½-inch seam allowance. That’s standard for most bag sewing. If your fabric frays easily, use a ⅝-inch allowance instead. After sewing, finish the raw edges to prevent fraying. You’ve got options: - **Zigzag stitch**, Run it along the seam allowance edge - **Serger**, Cuts and finishes in one pass - **Pinking shears**, Cuts a zigzag edge that reduces fraying - **Bias tape**, Wraps the raw edge completely Don’t skip this step. Unfinished seams will shed threads in the wash, and those threads tangle around everything. ## Step 5: Box the Bottom Corners Here’s where a laundry bag goes from “okay” to “actually useful.” Boxing the corners creates a flat bottom so the bag stands open on its own. Without this, your bag will be a fabric tube that flops over constantly. Turn the bag inside out so the seam allowances are visible. Pull the bottom corner flat so the side seam and bottom seam line up. You’ll see a triangle of fabric sticking out. Measure 2 inches from the corner point along the seam. Mark this spot. Draw a straight line perpendicular to the seam. Sew across this line. Trim the excess triangle, leaving a ½-inch seam allowance. Repeat for the other bottom corner. When you turn the bag right side out, you’ll have a flat, stable base. Trust me, this small step transforms the whole bag. ## Step 6: Install the Drawstring You’ve built the bag. Now let’s make it functional. Attach a safety pin to one end of your drawstring cord. Insert the safety pin into one opening of the drawstring channel. Start working the pin through the tunnel, bunching the fabric as you go. Pull the pin out when it reaches the other opening. You now have the drawstring running through the entire channel. Tie a knot at each end of the cord. I use an [overhand knot about an](https://apleasanthome.com/how-to-tie-a-laundry-bag/) inch from each tip. Some people add a simple bead or wooden toggle. That’s optional. Test the drawstring. Pull the cord evenly from both sides. The bag top should cinch closed smoothly. If it catches at any point, check for stitching that accidentally crossed the channel. ## Step 7: Reinforce Stress Points A laundry bag gets pulled, stuffed, and yanked. Certain areas bear more stress than others. Reinforce them now. Stitch a small bar tack (tight zigzag, back and forth) at the side seam near the drawstring openings. This prevents the seam from ripping when the bag is full and the drawstring is pulled tight. If you added grommets for the drawstring, reinforce the fabric around them with a small patch of interfacing or an extra layer of fabric. ## Step 8: Final Pressing This step seems small. It’s not. Turn the bag right side out. Press all seams flat. Press the bottom corners to define the box shape. Press the top edge to set the drawstring channel. A crisp, pressed bag looks professional. More importantly, pressed seams lie flat during washing, reducing the chance of catching on other items. ## Customization Ideas Your first bag will be great. Your second bag will be better. Here are mods to try once you’re comfortable. ### Add a Lining A lined laundry bag catches small [items that slip through mesh](https://apleasanthome.com/how-to-use-laundry-bag/) or weave. Make the lining from lightweight cotton in a contrasting color. Construct it identical to the outer bag, then insert it before sewing the drawstring channel. This doubles your sewing time but creates a much more polished bag. ### Use a Waterproof Fabric For a gym or swimsuit bag, use PUL (polyurethane laminate) fabric. It’s waterproof and wipeable. Note that PUL requires a Teflon needle and clips instead of pins (pins leave permanent holes). ### Add a Pocket Sew a small patch pocket on the outside. Perfect for dryer sheets, stain sticks, or spare change. ### Make It Reversible Use [contrasting fabric for the inside](https://apleasanthome.com/how-to-make-fabric-storage-baskets-at-home/) and outside. Construct the bag with the lining technique but make both sides visible. This gives you two bags in one. ## Washing and Care Instructions Your handmade laundry bag will last longer with proper care. - **Machine wash cold**, Hot water accelerates fabric breakdown - **Gentle cycle**, Reduces stress on seams - **Air dry**, Heat from dryers damages cotton fibers and shrinks fabric - **Avoid bleach**, Weakens thread and fabric - **Zip empty bag inside out**, Protects the drawstring during washing If you used nylon cord for the drawstring, it can melt in high heat. Air drying avoids this entirely. ## Troubleshooting Common Problems Even experienced sewers run into issues. Here’s how to fix the most common ones. ### Drawstring Won’t Move Freely The channel is too tight. Remove the cord. Check for stitches crossing the channel. Use a seam ripper to remove those stitches. Reinstall the drawstring. ### Bottom Corner Seam Popped Your seam allowance was too small. Cut the old stitches. Sew the seam with a wider allowance, at least ⅝ inch. Reinforce with a second line of stitching. ### Fabric Frayed Excessively You skipped the edge finishing step. Use a zigzag stitch or serger along all raw edges. For already-frayed edges, apply fray check liquid or bind with bias tape. ### Bag Won’t Stand Open The boxed bottom corners are too small. Increase the box dimension to 3 or 4 inches on your next bag. For this bag, seam tape or iron-on interfacing around the bottom can help it hold its shape. ## Alternative Construction Methods Not everyone owns a sewing machine. You’ve got options. ### Hand-Sewn Laundry Bag Use a running stitch or backstitch. Double your thread and knot the end. Keep stitches small and consistent, ⅛ inch apart minimum. Hand sewing takes longer but works perfectly fine. Expect two to three hours for a medium bag. ### No-Sew Laundry Bag Use fabric glue or fusible bonding tape instead of thread. These methods work for light loads only. Heavy wet laundry will pull glued seams apart. Stick to dry items if you go this route. ## When to Replace Your Laundry Bag Even the best-made bag eventually wears out. Look for these signs: - Seams are pulling apart - Fabric is thinning or has holes - Drawstring is frayed or broken - Grommets have pulled through the fabric - Mildew stains that won’t wash out A cotton canvas bag under regular use lasts about two to three years. A mesh bag lasts one to two years. When it’s time, don’t throw it in the trash. Cut it up for rags or use it as packing material. ## Final Thoughts Making your own laundry bag takes about an hour the first time. That’s one evening. By your third bag, you’ll finish in under 45 minutes. The cost? Roughly eight to twelve dollars in materials, and you’ll have leftover thread and fabric for other projects. Compare that to buying a lower-quality bag for the same price. You get better fabric. Better construction. Better fit. And the quiet pride of using something you built yourself. Grab your fabric. Clear your table. Let’s make that first cut.