How to Redo Closet
Let’s be honest. Your closet is probably a disaster. You open the door, and something falls on your head.
You can’t find the shirt you wanted. The wire shelves are sagging, the rod is bending, and you’ve got shoes piled in a corner. I’ve been there.
I’ve fixed it. And I’m going to show you exactly how to redo a closet from scratch, no fluff, no filler, just the real steps that work.
This isn’t a minor tidy-up. We’re talking a full gut-and-rebuild closet redo. Whether you’re working with a reach-in or a walk-in, the same principles apply.
You’ll learn how to plan, demolish, install, and organize so your closet finally works for you. Let’s get started.
Planning Your Closet Redo — Know What You’re Working With
Before you touch a single tool, you need a plan. I know, it’s tempting to just start ripping things out. Don’t.
A successful closet redo starts with measurements and a clear vision.
First, measure your space. Grab a tape measure and write down the width, depth, and height of the closet. Note the location of light fixtures, electrical outlets, and any vents.
You can’t move those without a contractor. Also check the studs. Shelving and rods need to anchor into solid wood, not drywall.
Use a stud finder and mark the stud locations with painter’s tape.
Next, decide what you’re storing. This sounds obvious, but most people don’t think it through. Are you mostly hanging clothes?
Do you need shelves for folded items? How many shoes? I always ask clients to pull everything out of their closet and sort it into piles: keep, donate, trash.
Be ruthless. You don’t need that sweater from 2008. Trust me.
Now choose a system. You’ve got three main options: custom built-ins, modular systems (like IKEA or The Container Store), or DIY with basic shelving and rods. Custom is the most expensive.
Modular is a middle ground. DIY is the cheapest and most flexible. For this article, I’m focusing on a DIY approach because it’s what most people can actually do in a weekend.
Set a budget. A basic closet redo can run from $100 to $500 depending on materials. Factor in paint, shelving, rods, brackets, bins, and maybe a new light fixture.
Buy everything at once to avoid multiple trips to the hardware store.
Finally, sketch your layout. Even a rough drawing helps. Divide the vertical space into zones: long hanging (for coats and dresses), short hanging (for shirts and pants), double hanging (two rods for kids or folded clothes), and shelves (for shoes, bins, and accessories).
A standard closet rod sits 60 to 66 inches from the floor. A second rod for short hanging goes at 40 inches. Shelves above the rod can go up to the ceiling.
Removing the Old and Prepping the Space
Alright, time to get dirty. But go slow. You don’t want to damage the drywall or the floor.
Start by removing everything. Take out all clothes, boxes, and hangers. Then remove the existing shelving and rods.
If they’re screwed into studs, unscrew them. If they’re clipped into brackets, pry them off. Use a small pry bar or a hammer.
Wire shelving often has clips that snap off, just pull straight out.
Next, patch any holes. Old shelves leave screw holes and dents. Use spackle or a lightweight joint compound.
Apply it with a putty knife, let it dry, then sand it smooth. I like to use a fine-grit sanding sponge because it’s easy to control.
Now clean the walls and floor. Vacuum every corner. Wipe down the walls with a damp cloth.
If there’s any mold or mildew (common in closets with poor ventilation), treat it with a bleach solution or a mold-killing cleaner. Let it dry completely.
Finally, decide if you’re painting. A fresh coat of paint makes a huge difference. White or a light gray is classic.
It makes the space feel bigger and brighter. Use a semi-gloss or satin finish, it’s easier to clean than flat paint. Tape off the edges, prime if needed, and paint two coats.
Let the paint cure for at least 24 hours before you start installing.
Choosing the Right Shelving and Rods
This is where your closet redo really takes shape. The materials you choose affect durability, appearance, and cost. Don’t cheap out on the hardware.
Trust me on this.
Shelving options:
- Melamine-coated particle board, cheap, smooth, and easy to clean. It’s the standard for closet systems. But it can chip if you drop something heavy.
- Solid wood (pine or plywood), stronger, more expensive. Great for heavy storage. You can paint or stain it.
- Wire shelving, cheap and ventilated, but it’s ugly and not great for delicate items. I’d skip it for a real redo.
- Metal shelving, industrial look, very strong. Good for garages or basements, but not typical for a bedroom closet.
Rod options:
- Standard wooden closet rods, classic, strong, and affordable. They come in various diameters. 1¼-inch is common.
- Metal rods, chrome or nickel. They don’t warp, but they can be noisy. They’re fine for light clothing.
- Double rods, one rod above another. Great for maximizing hanging space. You’ll need brackets that support both.
Brackets and supports:
You need heavy-duty brackets for shelves. Look for “closet shelf brackets” or “standards” (vertical tracks) with brackets that clip in. Make sure they’re rated for the weight you’ll put on them.
A typical shelf loaded with folded clothes can weigh 30 to 50 pounds. Plan for that.
For rods, use flanged rod holders that screw into the wall studs. Never use drywall anchors for a clothes rod, they’ll pull out. Also install a center support bracket if the rod is longer than 4 feet.
Otherwise, it will bend under the weight of heavy coats.
How to Install Closet Rods and Shelving
Image source: Pexels / Esra Korkmaz (Pexels License)
Now we’re in the thick of it. This is where the closet redo comes together. Follow these steps carefully.
Step 1: Mark the stud locations on the wall. Use the stud finder and mark with a pencil. Then hold your shelf bracket or standard up to the wall and level it. Mark the screw holes.
Step 2: Drill pilot holes. Use a drill bit slightly smaller than your screw. This prevents the wood from splitting and makes driving the screws easier. If you hit a stud, great.
If not, you’ll need to use toggle bolts or heavy-duty drywall anchors. But try to hit studs for any load-bearing brackets.
Step 3: Attach the brackets. Screw the brackets into the wall. For standards, screw the vertical track into the wall at multiple studs. Then clip the shelf brackets into the track at your desired height.
Step 4: Install the shelf. Place the shelf on top of the brackets. If it’s melamine particle board, it might have a pre-drilled hole for a screw. Secure it to the bracket with a small screw to prevent it from sliding.
If you’re using solid wood, you can also use L-brackets underneath.
Step 5: Install the rod holders. Mark the height for your rod. For long hanging, 60 to 66 inches is standard. For short hanging, 40 inches.
The rod holders should be spaced so the rod sits about 1 inch from the back wall. Hold the rod holder against the wall, level it, mark the holes, drill pilot holes, and screw it in. Make sure both holders are at the same height.
Use a level across the top of both.
Step 6: Insert the rod. Slide the rod into the holders. If it’s a wooden rod, you may need to sand the ends slightly. If it’s metal, just push it in.
With a center support bracket, attach it to the wall and clip the rod into it.
Step 7: Install upper shelves. If you have space above the rod, install a shelf about 12 inches above the rod. Use the same bracket method. This shelf is great for bins, hats, or seasonal items you don’t need often.
Take your time with leveling. A crooked shelf or rod will drive you crazy every time you open the door. I’ve been there.
It’s worth the extra few minutes.
Maximizing Vertical and Floor Space
Image source: Wikimedia Commons / Eric Friedebach (CC BY)
A closet redo isn’t just about shelves and rods. It’s about using every inch of space intelligently. Most closets have wasted vertical space above the rod and wasted floor space at the bottom.
Let’s fix that.
Go high. Install a shelf as high as you can reach. Use it for items you only need a few times a year, luggage, holiday decorations, out-of-season clothes. Store them in clear bins so you can see what’s inside.
Label them. I use a label maker, but a piece of masking tape and a marker works too.
Double the hanging space. If your closet is deep enough (at least 24 inches), install a second rod below the first. This works best for shirts, pants, and skirts. Kids’ clothes are perfect for double hanging.
Just make sure the lower rod is high enough to clear your shoes.
Use the floor for shoes, not piles. Get a shoe rack. A tiered rack that fits under short hanging clothes is ideal. Or use clear plastic shoe boxes stacked on the floor.
Stackable cube shelves are good too. The key is to keep shoes off the floor so they don’t get kicked around.
Add hooks and over-door organizers. The back of the door is prime real estate. Install a hook rack for robes, belts, and bags. Over-door organizers with pockets are great for scarves, ties, and accessories.
They’re cheap and take seconds to install.
Consider drawer units. If you have floor space, add a small chest of drawers or a modular drawer system. It’s perfect for socks, underwear, and folded items. IKEA’s Alex drawer units are popular.
They fit under short hanging clothes nicely.
Use the corners. In a walk-in closet, corner shelves are a must. They’re awkward to reach but perfect for storage bins. In a reach-in closet, corner space is often wasted.
You can install a lazy Susan or a pull-out shelf in the corner to make it accessible.
Painting and Finishing Touches
You’ve done the hard work. Now make it look good.
Paint the walls if you haven’t already. As I mentioned earlier, white or light gray is a safe bet. But you can also go bold, a dark navy or charcoal can make a closet feel like a boutique.
Just make sure the lighting is good. A dark closet with a single bulb will feel like a cave.
Upgrade the lighting. Closets are notorious for having a single, bare bulb. Replace it with a flush-mount LED fixture. Even better, install a motion-sensor light.
It turns on when you open the door and off when you leave. Battery-powered stick-on lights are also an option for shelves or corners.
Add a mirror. A full-length mirror on the inside of the door or on a wall is a game-changer. You can try on outfits without leaving the closet. Many mirrors come with hooks or lean against the wall.
Just make sure it’s safely attached.
Install a valet rod. This is a small pull-out rod that you can use to hang an outfit for the next day. They’re usually mounted on a bracket that slides out. It’s a luxury touch, but it’s cheap and easy to install.
Put in a new closet rod. If you’re using a wooden rod, you can paint it or stain it to match your shelves. Metal rods come in chrome, brass, or black. Choose a finish that complements your hardware.
Add trim or crown molding. This is a bit advanced, but it gives a finished look. Crown molding around the top of the closet makes it look built-in. Paint it the same color as the walls or the ceiling.
Organizing Your New Closet — The Fun Part
The closet redo is nearly done. Now you get to put everything back. But don’t just throw it in.
Organize with intention.
Group like items together. Hang all shirts together, then all pants, then all dresses. Within each category, sort by color or sleeve length. It’s easier to find what you need.
Use uniform hangers. I can’t stress this enough. Mismatched hangers make a closet look messy. Invest in a set of slim velvet hangers.
They take up less space, and clothes don’t slip off. They’re cheap and available at any home store.
Fold items that don’t need hanging. T-shirts, sweaters, jeans, and workout clothes fold neatly. Use the KonMari method, fold them into rectangles so they stand up. This way you can see everything at a glance.
Store them in drawer units or on shelves with bins.
Use bins for small items. Clear bins are best for accessories, socks, underwear, and belts. Label each bin. Stackable bins are great for shelves.
Fabric bins are soft and look nicer, but they’re harder to see inside. I prefer clear for function.
Keep a “donate” bag in the closet. As you’re putting things back, you’ll probably find items you no longer want. Put them in a bag immediately. Don’t let them sit in the corner.
Take the bag to your car and drop it off at a donation center within a week.
Create a “laundry” or “dry cleaning” area. If you have space, install a small hamper or a hook for a laundry bag. Also add a hook for a dry cleaning bag. This keeps dirty clothes out of sight.
Reserve the most accessible spots for daily use. The rod at eye level, the shelf at waist height, and the hooks on the door, these are for the clothes and accessories you wear every week. Seasonal items go up high or down low.
Maintaining Your Closet Long-Term
A closet redo is not a one-time event. It’s a system that needs maintenance. Here’s how to keep it organized.
Do a seasonal rotation. Twice a year, swap out your winter and summer clothes. Move the off-season items to the high shelves or to storage bins. This keeps your daily closet from getting overcrowded.
Purge regularly. Every time you buy something new, get rid of something old. I follow the one-in-one-out rule. It prevents your closet from overflowing.
Return items to their homes. After you wear something, hang it back up or fold it and put it away. Don’t toss it on the chair. That’s how the chaos starts.
Clean the shelves and bins. Dust and lint accumulate. Wipe down shelves with a damp cloth every few months. Wash fabric bins if they get dirty.
Check the hardware. Tighten loose screws. Replace bent brackets. A wobbly rod can collapse.
A little maintenance prevents a disaster.
Frequently Asked Questions About Redoing a Closet
How long does it take to redo a closet?
A basic DIY redo takes one to two days. The first day is for demolition, patching, and painting. The second day is for installing shelves, rods, and organizing.
If you’re working with a modular system, it might take a few hours.
Do I need to remove the existing closet system completely?
Not always. If the current system is in good shape but looks dated, you can paint the shelves and replace the hardware. But if it’s sagging or broken, gut it.
A partial redo rarely looks as good as a full redo.
What’s the best height for a closet rod?
For long hanging (coats, dresses), 60 to 66 inches from the floor. For short hanging (shirts, pants), 40 inches. Adjust based on your height.
You should be able to reach the hanger without stretching.
Can I redo a closet on a tight budget?
Absolutely. A DIY redo with basic shelving, a wooden rod, and paint can cost under $100. The most expensive part is the shelving.
Use melamine boards from a home center and cut them yourself. Use brackets from a discount store.
Should I hire a professional?
If you have a large walk-in closet or want custom built-ins, yes. But for a standard reach-in closet, a DIY redo is totally doable. I’ve done it several times.
Just be patient with the measurements.
What type of paint is best for a closet?
Semi-gloss or satin. They’re durable and easy to clean. Flat paint gets scuffed easily.
Use a good primer if the walls are dark or stained.
How do I maximize a small closet?
Use double hanging rods, go high with shelves, use the door for hooks, and add a shoe rack. Every inch counts. Also, use slim hangers to save space.
Final Thoughts on the Closet Redo
Redoing a closet is one of the most satisfying home improvement projects you can do. It’s relatively small, cheap, and quick. But the payoff is huge.
Every morning, you’ll open your closet and feel a sense of calm. You’ll find your clothes easily. You’ll actually want to get dressed.
I’ve walked through this process with dozens of clients. The steps I’ve shared here are exactly what I do. Measure twice, buy good hardware, level everything, and organize with purpose.
That’s the secret.
For more detailed guidance on home organization, check out resources from the University of Minnesota Extension, they offer practical, research-based tips. And if you’re looking for professional standards on closet design, the National Association of Home Builders has guidelines for residential storage.
Now get to work. Your closet isn’t going to redo itself.
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